In our house, Christmas was the one time we could push the boat out and eat! In the late 40′s and 50′s when I was growing up, the UK was in the grip of rationing. We were lucky. My Dad worked in the clubs and restaurants that served the rich in London. He was the leader of a small jazz combo called the Quaglino Quartette; he put the band together while he was working at Quags.
Giovanni Quaglino, who opened the hotel in 1929 was a wonderful host. His clients included the Duke of Windsor and Princess Margaret, who allegedly took my brother’s guitar (he often played with my Dad) and tried to play a tune on it. Other famous people include Evelyn Waugh and Barbara Cartland. My Dad knew them all. Sadly Quags shut its door in 1981 and they stayed shut until Sir Terence Conran and his partner, Joel Kissin reopened it. Quaglino’s now salutes Thirties glamour. The restaurant is opulent and contemporary and I think my Dad would have been thrilled to see how it looks today, with its sleek bar where a pianist plays. There is still a dance floor and trios and quartets play during the evenings at weekends.
We opened our presents on Christmas morning, after all we were living in England and my parents respected and wanted us to learn English ways and traditions. Most Italians used to open their presents on the Epiphany, l’epifania, January 6th. As was the tradition, we received a stocking filled with small toys, an Amoretti biscuit that we unwrapped immediately and threw the tissue paper wrapping into the fire where it burned bright, the remains floating up the chimney, carrying our wishes with it. We also found a small orange in the toe of the stocking. This was a real treat in those days and I suspect my father managed to get them from the chef at the club where he was working!
Although in Italy it was traditionally the kind witch, La Befana, who brought the gifts and sweets, in our house it was Santa. I remember so clearly the magic feeling of staying awake in my bed with the curtains open, looking up at a star studded sky, waiting to see the sleigh and the reindeer. One Christmas when I was about five years old, I swear I saw him. I was told that in Italy the wise witch was followed by the wise men that got lost and have been wandering ever since, handing out presents to children. In Venice and Mantova, it’s Santa Lucia who brings the presents, while in some regions it’s Baby Jesus, Gesu’ Bambino, who bears the gifts. But nowadays, 90% of Italians also believe in Santa Claus, Babbo Natale.
Christmas day for me was all about family, love and food; la famiglia, l’amaore e il cibo. We didn’t stick to the tradition of fasting on Christmas Eve, but my mother would cook a supper of Salt Cod and Polenta. After eating, we would get ready for church and midnight mass. This was sheer wonder for a small child. The candles and incense, the crib with its painted plaster Jesus, Mary and Jospeh, the Wise Men and their gifts, the shepherds and angels, all amazing and magical to a child. To be allowed to stay up until after midnight and accompany my family to church was so exciting. We would put on our Sunday best and walk to church, the frosty night air pinching our cheeks. (I remember it always as frosty!) If I was cold, I would travel on my brother’s shoulders or be wrapped in one of the grown-ups coats. Inevitably I would fall asleep during the latter half of the mass, but I would force myself to stay awake and see the Consecration of the Host and watch people receiving communion.
After opening the presents at about 8am, despite not getting to bed until 2am, the women would start to prepare for lunch. Lunch on Christmas day was a theatrical performance! It was a long show! My elder sister and I would lay the table. We would cover it with a spotless white and starched linen cloth, napkins, silver knives and forks, crystal glasses and most important of all for me, Christmas Crackers. There would usually be 12 around the table, a mixture of cousins and aunts, uncles and musicians. We would start the meal with an anti pasti of vegetables and meats that would include salami, coppa, mortadella and liver pate. A good wine would accompany this and all the courses and I was always allowed a small glass of my own. Then Mum would serve a soup or brode with home made ravioli floating in it. Copious amounts pf Parmesan cheese would be sprinkled on this and my Dad would pour a good slurp of wine into my plate to ‘liven up’ my soup!
Because we were in England, Mum would always cook a turkey, but it was liberally stuffed with an Italian stuffing made with cheese, breadcrumbs, lots of garlic, onions, mushrooms and herbs. It was delicious and I still stuff my turkey with a version of it today. Sometimes Mum would make two stuffings, one with chestnuts, but I found that too rich and preferred the cheese one. For desert, Christmas pudding was always served. The lights would be turned off and the pudding would be brought into the room, flaming. By now it would be about 4pm so the light outside would be failing, making it even more magical for a child. The meal would end with oranges and nuts, liqueurs and chocolates. Mum’s sweet filled ravioli would be bought to the table, a mound of glistening fried pasta squares filled with chestnuts, liqueur and spices, doused in honey! Then the sugared almonds and cigars would come round with the indoor fireworks, a must for us on Christmas day.
We would move to our large sitting room where the grand piano stood and my sister would play and sing for us. Tradition has it that in Italy pipers – zampognari, perform songs on bagpipes, flutes and oboes. These travelling musicians come down from the mountains in the regions of Abruzzo and Calabria and typically wear bright red jackets and broad-brimmed hats with red tassels. In Rome, the pipers play at the market in the historic Piazza Navona, on the Spanish Steps and at the entrance to St. Peter’s Square. Figures of the zampognari often feature in nativity scenes. But my family came from the North of Italy and I think the family made their own music using accordions, my father’s instrument. It was all wonderful to me!
Here are the words to an Italian carol – Un Canto di Natale. Astro del Ciel, Star of the Sky (same tune as Silent Night)
Astro del ciel, Pargol divin, mite Agnello Redentor! Tu che i Vati da lungi sognar, tu che angeliche voci nunziar, luce dona alle genti, pace infondi nei cuor! luce dona alle genti, pace infondi nei cuor! Astro del ciel, Pargol divin, mite Agnello Redentor! Tu di stirpe regale decor, Tu virgineo, mistico fior, luce dona alle genti, pace infondi nei cuor! Luce dona alle genti, pace infondi nei cuor! Astro del ciel, Pargol divin, mite Agnello Redentor! Tu disceso a scontare l’error, Tu sol nato a parlare d’amor, luce dona alle genti, pace infondi nei cuor! Luce dona alle genti, pace infondi nei cuor!
When I had my own children I tried to recapture some of the magic of those family Christmases for them, But it was difficult. We have made Christmas so commercial and church is no longer part of the celebration. Although I admit to being a lapsed Catholic, those midnight masses were so special to me. I think we managed to attend a couple of times when my kids were growing up and I know it made an impression on them.
I was in a store last Christmas when standing beside some christmas cards with pictures of a cross and a Nativity on them, I heard a woman say: ‘Look, they’re even bringing religion into Christmas now!’
The magic of those family Christmases will never fade for me and every year, I take a moment to think about all the hard work and love my Italian family put into making it so special for all of us. I love them all so much for that. Buon Natale!
